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Flight chronicles of the backpacker Tutubi, with travelogues, pictures/photos/videos, travel guides, independent and honest reviews, affordable, recommended resorts and hotels (including inns, guesthouses, pension houses, lodges, hostels, condotels, bed and breakfast and other cheap accommodations), commuting guides, routes (sometimes street maps and GPS coordinates/waypoints) and driving directions to answer "how to get there" questions, information and tips on tourism, budget travel and living in Philippines, Exotic Asia and beyond!

Backpacking, independent travel, and flashpacking are cheaper than the "cheapest package tours" and promotional offers around but you can also use travel information for family vacations, even romantic honeymoon destinations.

More than the usual tourist spots and "places to see," this blog advocates heritage conservation, environmental protection, and history awareness for Filipinos, foreigners, and ex-pats wishing to explore Paradise Philippines and Exotic Asia!
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    The "Lost" Yamashita Treasure in Los Banos, Laguna

    Tourism sites often list the Homma - Yamashita Shrine in Los Banos, Laguna as a tourist spot yet you cannot really find any information about it, even asking supposedly tourism personnel at Laguna Tourism went for naught several times.

    Tutubi, in typical spur-of-the-moment fashion, en route to Paete from Makiling Onsen Hotel suddenly thought of finding Yamashita's treasure along the national highway and turned to Jamboree Road going up to Mt. Makiling and UPLB and asked several people and tricycle drivers where to find the long, lost treasure of Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita, the Tiger of Malaya, conqueror of the "impenetrable" Singaport and commander of the defense of the Philippines during the closing months of World War II in the Philippines



    After a few hits and misses, Tutubi was led to a narrow that was too narrow for Scarlett (his ride) to enter so they went on foot. Further asking around from locals led him to the caretaker of the shrine who opened the locked gates for him

    the locked gates of the execution site of Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita, with contact number posted on the sign

    the arch of the Memorial Monument of General Yamashita

    Yamashita came to the Philippines on October 10, 1944, a few days before Gen. MacArthur landed on the beaches of Leyte (in a scripted and heavily practiced landing actually for propaganda purposes) and surrendered to the Americans in Kiangan, Ifugao (a future destination of Tutubi) then was tried in Manila from 29 October to 7 December 1945 by an American military tribunal for war crimes relating to the Manila massacre (that Tutubi thinks really was not his fault at all)

    On 23 February 1946, at this site in Los Baños, Laguna Yamashita was hanged. His final words were “As I said in the Manila Supreme Court that I have done with my all capacity, so I don't ashame in front of the gods for what I have done when I have died. But if you say to me 'you do not have any ability to command the Japanese Army' I should say nothing for it, because it is my own nature. Now, our war criminal trial going under your kindness and right. I know that all your American and American military affairs always has tolerant and rightful judgment. When I have been investigated in Manila court I have had a good treatment, kindful attitude from your good natured officers who protected me all the time. I never forget for what they have done for me even if I had died. I don't blame my executioner. I'll pray the gods bless them. Please send my thankful word to Col. Clarke and Lt. Col. Feldhaus, Lt. Col. Hendrix, Maj. Guy, Capt. Sandburg, Capt. Reel, at Manila court, and Col. Arnard. I thank you."


    the simple, minimalist shrine for Gen. Yamashita where he was executed.

    Closing up with the tomdstone marker, it's amazing that Tutubi can stillr read basic kanji he learned in Nihongo class in college after all these years. The third kanji character means "Yama" which means mountain in Japanese and the fourth character was "Shita" which means under or below in Japanese. Yamashita in Japanese loosely means "under the mountain" or at the foot of mountain.

    How Tutubi wishes to read the whole inscription but can only read two kanji characters. Tutubi intends to also visit the Yasukuni Shrine in Japan to find the "Yamashita treasure" buried there based on maps used by treasure hunters

    Gen. Yamashita was buried at this ssame site but was later transferred to the (in)famous Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo, Japan where Class A war criminals of Japan are interred.

    Coming up:

    the execution site of Gen. Masaharu Homma, the man hanged for the atrocities of the Bataan Death March

    If you need a map of the shrine, Tutubi already updated OpenStreetMap for your reference. You can just set your GPS to the site and avoid the difficulty (yet fun) of finding it. It's near DOST Region 4 Office and Los Banos Community National High School and at the end of Yamashita Road

    How to get there:
    Take a DLTB or HM Transport/GreenStar Express on EDSA, Cubao or Taft Avenue, Pasay City with signboard Sta. Cruz/Calamba. Request the conductor to drop you off at Jamboree Road and new Los Banos Municipal Hall (munisipyo) then take a tricycle to the shrine.

    lastly, Tutubi thinks the Yamashita Treasure is an urban legend, a hoax. even the Golden Buddha supposedly found by Rogelio Santos and later acquired by Ferdinand Marcos. There's just no proof of its existence, only gossips. The golden Buddha too, if real, should've been reported as a lost treasure by an asian country.

    Related Post:
    The Daring Raid at UPLB in World War II


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    posted by GingGoy @ 8:34 PM, ,

    World War II: Raid at UPLB, Los Banos, Laguna

    On February 23, 1945, American forces aided by Filipino guerillas conducted one of the most successful rescue operations in modern military history, almost a month after the successful rescue at the POW internment camp in Cabanatuan (later dubbed Raid at Cabanatuan and made into a Hollywood movie "the Great Raid").

    Following the American forces landing on Leyte Gulf to begin the liberation of the Philippines, the Japanese Imperial Army massacred Prisoners-of-War internees including those at Plaza Cuartel in Palawan.

    Gen. MacArthur was worried that other POWs would suffer the same fate that he devised plans to rescue thousands of them interned at various concentration camps including those in Cabanatuan, University of Sto. Tomas and in UP College of Agriculture in Los Banos, Laguna (now the University of the Philippines Los Baños or UPLB).

    It was at Baker Hall, now UPLB gymnasium and named after Charles Fuller Baker, the former Dean of Agriculture of UP which housed more than two thousand prisoners.

    the historic Baker Hall, now a gymanasium where events and parties are held, also has ghost stories told by students and teachers alike

    If the Great Raid at Cabanatuan was executed by crawling soldiers under the cover of darkness and a P61 Black Widow as decoy, the raid at Los Banos was executed with the help or paratroopers as the POW camp is located on the hills of Mt. Makiling with reinforcements also from Laguna de Bay.

    If the Raid at Cabanatuan was made into a Hollywood movie titled "The Great Raid," the raid at Los Banos was also turned into a movie in 2004 called "Rescue at Dawn: the Los Banos Raid"

    A little girl plays football on Baker Field, a football field lined with huge trees with the chapel and carillon bell tower in view

    After a few days, Japanese forces arrived at the camp and found it empty of prisoners. With the help of MAKAPILI (Makabayang Katipunan ng mga Pilipino), they rounded up and massacred about 1500 men, women and children (including people who sought refuge in a chapel) and burned their homes.

    The people of Los Banos felt betrayed when the Americans left them behind to feel the wrath of the Japanese but soon learned to forgive them years later.

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    posted by GingGoy @ 8:39 PM, ,

    WW2 Truth: Gen. Douglas MacArthur Left Corregidor with $500,000 from Manuel L. Quezon

    Warning: if you see Gen. Douglas MacArthur as an impeccable war hero worthy of adulation, stop and leave this page. If you have an open mind, read on! :P

    This day marks the 71st anniversary of the escape of Gen. Douglas MacArthur from the fortress island of Corregidor to Mindanao then finally to Melbourne, Australia.

    Herewith are the historical truth that every Filipino should know behind the man mostly known for his "I Shall return" rhetoric.

    December 1941: despite a few hours warning of the coming Japanese invaders from Pearl harbor, MacArthur failed to mobilize his troops and allowed the Japanese to annihilate his air force on the ground. (remember much of the "great" generals air assets were destroyed without a fight save for the heroics of Jesus Villamor, Cesar Fernando Basa et al who we now remember with airbases in the country named in their honor)

    American President Roosevelt didn't send reinforcements to help Filipino and American troops holed up in Bataan for their priority was defeating Germany in Europe (see, Ph is just second to American interests during the war) together with the British and the French

    During the Siege of Bataan, his media savvy brought out press releases that were able to portray himself as the American Hero of the Pacific, despite heavy losses and imminent annihilation

    January 1942: MacArthur accepted $500,000.00 (half a million dollars which is a whole lot of money in 1942) from then Philippine president Manuel L. Quezon (the Philippine treasury was worth a few million dollars back then) What was the intention of Quezon for giving the money to MacArthur? Was that a bribe, a payment or just "utang na loob"

    The spot on Corregidor Island where Gen. Douglas MacArthur bid his troops farewell and uttered his famous words "I Shall Return" is marked with a monument

    March 11, 1942: MacArthur left Corregidor for Australia via Mindanao on board a torpedo boat

    When MacArthur was already in Australia, he ordered his troops to fight till the end and even promised them help is on the way even if there's really none.

    MacArthur and the US government's abandonment of dying troops in Bataan and Corregidor Island was the reason why the troops who remained fighting the Japanese in a lost cause called themselves "The Battling Bastards of Bataan" who were later captured and forced by the Japanese to participate in the infamous Bataan Death March

    On October 20, 1944, MacArthur returned to the Philippines by his historic landing on Red Beach in Palo, Leyte. Did you know that MacArthur had several rehearsals just to do his wading on the beach immortalized in the Leyte Landing Memorial near Tacloban?

    macarthur leyte landingMacArthur Landing Park on Red Beach, Palo, Leyte

    The US government knew about the controversial payment of Quezon to MacArthur but ignored the fact, simply because they needed a hero. MacArthur may have failed to defend the Philippines but he was very successful in portraying himself as a great tactician to the American public.

    Good thing he didn't become US President, his former "secretary" in the Philippines, Dwight David Eisenhower did when he became the 34th President of the United States from 1953 until 1961.

    Related posts on Corregidor:
    Corregidor Tour Part 1
    Corregidor Tour Part 2
    Star Toll,
    Fall of Corregidor

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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:30 PM, ,

    Palawan Massacre at Plaza Cuartel, Puerto Princesa

    Just beside Palawan Cathedral (Immaculate Conception Cathedral) in Puerto Princesa is a walled park where grim history of American prisoners of war (POW) haunts every visitor curious about the past great war.

    The history of Plaza Cuartel is a must for students of history and every Filipino who wish to know the heroism of many who died and suffered for our freedom.

    entrance to historic Plaza Cuartel with the NHI historical marker installed



    the National Historical Commission of the Philippines marker states, in Filipino, of the history of Plaza Cuartel

    "Sa pook na ito na dating tanggulang militar noong Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig naganap ang pagsunog ng mga sundalong hapon sa humigit kumulang 150 Amerikanong bihag ng digma noong 14 Disyembre 1944. Ilang nakaligtas ay lumangoy sa dagat patungong Iwahig. Ang mga labi ng nasawi ay dinala at inilibing sa St. Louis County sa isang panlahatang libingan sa Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery, Missouri, United States, 1952."

    the Palawan Massacre Monument, created by one of the POWs who spent time at the Japanese garrison.

    the commemorative Palawan Massacre marker partly reads:

    "American WW-II POWs were massacred in this place on December 14, 1944.

    On that day Japanese guards stationed here in Palawan ordered the American POWs under their control into the air raid shelters.

    Japanese soldiers suddenly poured gasoline on and into the American POW shelters and set them on fire with the flaming torches, followed by hand grenades. As the American POWs, engulfed in flames broke out of the fiery death traps, their Japanese guards machine gunned, bayoneted and decapitated an clubbed them to death.

    Of the American POWs, only 11 survived the massacre. This memorial is by artist Don Schloat, a former POW of the Japanese at Palawan."

    It was due to this unfortunate incident that advancing army of the returning Gen. MacArthur (who had just landed on October 20, 1944 somewhere near Tacloban, in a place now known as MacArthur Park in Palo, Leyte) decided to free remaining POWs still incarcerated in three POW camps in Luzon were sprung in three separate and simultaneous raids: University of Sto. Tomas, University of Los Banos (UPLB) in Laguna, Camp O'Donnel in Tarlac and the so called Great Raid in Cabanatuan.

    Other World War II History posts:

    Corregidor
    Kamikaze Field in Pampanga
    Dambana ng Kagitingan
    Bataan Death March

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    posted by GingGoy @ 8:48 PM, ,

    Bataan Death March Km 0 Marker Bagac

    Tutubi went on a company summer outing in Bagac, Bataan just last week at a controversial "heritage" resort along with his parents where he also took them, to their surprise, to the towering Dambana ng Kagitingan on top of Mt. Samat in Pilar, Bataan before taking them to the HM Transport bus terminal in Cubao.

    Along the fork of the road leading to Bagac town proper is a relatively unnoticed and forgotten historical marker on one of the two spots where the Bataan Death March historically started (the one is in Mariveles Bataan, the town at the tip of Bataan Peninsula near the fortress Island of Corregidor).

    This is Tutubi's post on the anniversary of the infamous Bataan Death March which started on April 9, 1942, the historic Fall of Bataan.

    old picture of Bataan Death March, survivors called themselves the Battling Bastards of Bataan after the United States abandoned them (Gen. MacArthur escaped to Australia from Corregidor, right?)

    bataan death march markerthe people pass by on the fork oblivious of the historical importance of the marker. From Balanga, the right road leads to Bagac town proper, the (Bagac Church) and the Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar; the left road leads to Montemar Beach Club and other Bagac beach resorts. (Marker coordinates: N14 35 58.0 E120 23 41.3)


    Bataan Death March trail (the whole route is marked by milestones, km 0 shown here):

    1a. March start in Bagac Bataan to Balanga along the present Balanga-Bagac Road
    1b. March start from Mariveles, Bataan to Balanga along Bataan Provincial Highway and join with the Bagac group (distance: 30 km)
    2. Bataan Provincial highway to San Fernando Train station in Pampanga (distance: 53 km)
    3. train ride from San Fernando, Pampanga to Capas, Tarlac (48 km in cramped train cars)
    4. Marched again from Capas train station to the concentration camp (distance: 12 km)
    5. Endpoint: Camp O'Donell now known as Capas National Shrine (where a list of prisoners-of-war, The Battling Bastards of Bataan, who made it alive to the camp can be found)

    Note: some peole claim the many wicked soldiers of Death March were Koreans conscripted into the Japan Imperial Army. Note that Korea was part of the Empire of Japan during the World War II.

    Tutubi will someday visit the other Kilometer Zero marker of the Death March plus the trains stations in San Fernando, Pampanga and Capas, Tarlac to finish the World War II historical trail (along with a Bataan Death March Route Map, in Japanese: Batān Shi no Kōshin (バターン死の行進?). There's also the Bataan Death March Marathon Run event some years ago but not sure if still held this year.).

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    posted by GingGoy @ 1:30 AM, ,

    The Historic Apatot Beach, San Esteban, Ilocos Sur

    From Candon City, Tutubi tried to find the way to Santiago Cove in Santiago town but unreliable locals couldn't point him in the right direction. Tutubi's Garmin Nuvi GPS navigator was also useless in the area as it is unmapped (if Tutubi was able to find it, he'll update the map himself like what he's now doing to places he has visited)

    Due to the problem encountered, he opted to go straight to the next Ilocos Sur "tourist spot" on his list: Apatot Beach, San Esteban town. This time, was able to find the right road to turn to with locals who directed him to the two beach resorts plus the modern lighthouse beside a barangay hall.

    Apatot Beach, San Esteban, Ilocos Sur

    apatot beach Apatot Beach with lots of bancas docked, no place to frolick, picnic et al

    apatot beach san esteban ilocos surApatot Beach's sand up close, is not really fine white but rocky at most. the water has very visible green algae too, irritating to swimmers and beach bummers

    Tutubi's verdict:
    Listed by Ilocos Sur Tourism office as a come-on for tourists, Tutubi finds it ordinary and not worth your time if you come from faraway Manila. It's a nice picnic place for locals though where the usual palce to stay at nearby beach resorts and while away time with the videoke machine at full blast.

    Apatot Beach Resorts:

    There are only two beach resorts on Apatot Beach seen by Tutubi with
    typical facilities and amenities. No phone numbers posted on the resort
    walls, no official websites and published room rates, cottage fees,
    entrance fees and overnight accommodations. Probably due to the fact
    that they cater mostly locals. No swimming pools sighted.

    Don Coronel Beach Resort
    Contact Number: +63.919.660.4132

    Ursa Major Beach Resort

    No information if there are suitable snorkeling areas as well as dive sites nearby too

    World War II History in Apatot beach, San Esteban, Ilocos Sur:

    For history buffs, this cove in San Esteban, Ilocos was the site of a
    submarine surfacing during the latter part of World War II to unload
    arms and supplies for the United States Army Forces in the Philippines
    - Northern Luzon (USAFIP, NL. Remember in an earlier post, the Tagudin
    Town Hall served as USAFIP, NL hospital).

    The old historical marker that was washed away states: "
    San Esteban Landing Site
    Twice surfacing at Santiago Cove on November 21, 1944, the
    USS GAR landed on this beach. Commandos of the Army of the United States
    with equipment, arms, ammunition and supplies led by Capts. William
    Vaughn and William Farell were Lts. Fred Behan and Donald Jamison with
    two other Americans and Larry Guzman with other G Filipinos of the First
    Filipino regiment. The landing was effected by USAFIP-NL under Col.
    Russell W. Volkmann with other paramilitary and guerilla units. By order
    of Volkmann, Jamison and Maj. Ferdinand E. Marcos sneaked through the
    cordon of Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita to an air strip in Isabela and flew to
    Camp Spencer”.

    Tutubi would have believed the story completely but there's mention of
    Ferdinand Marcos as a war hero. Take note, no offense to many Ilocano
    brothers who still put the Marcoses on a high pedestal, Ferdinand Marcos
    was president with a very well documented dictatorship and falsely
    documented exploits of war heroism. His medals of heroism during World
    War II were all fake custom-made to glorify himself. Such vainglory!
    Tutubi's glad the historical marker was washed away. It should've been
    replaced with a properly verified marker by historical scholars of the
    National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP, formerly NHI).

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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:09 PM, ,

    Ilocos Sur: Tagudin Sundials and St. Augustine Church

    First of the Tour of Ilocos Sur series...

    The southernmost town of the province of Ilocos Sur that straddles La Union province possess a timekeeping tradition used by ancient men using shadows cast by the sun to tell time.

    The two sundials were constructed in the town of Tagudin by Father Juan Sorolla in 1848. One is located inside the 100 year old Saint Augustine School compound and the other stands in front of Tagudin town hall.

    spanish sundial tagudinclaimed to be the first sundial in the Philippines, Tutubi had to ask permission from the principal of St. Augustine School to see the sundial inside the campus (na-opis si Tutubi). You can't tell the time from this sundial as it's shadowed by a tree


    sundial tagudin ilocos surthe second sundial in Tagudin is just on the town square right in front of Tagudin town hall. You can see it's almost 12nn when Tutubi visited the historic town

    The Church of St. Augustine, made of brick and stone and earthquake baroque style started construction in 1796 and finished in 1832. The belfry, detached from the main church typical of earthquake baroque architecture was built in 1881. The church convent is now a school run by the Immaculate Conception of Mary Sisters.

    st augustine church tagudin ilocos suras seen from the sundial picture above, it's high noon when Tutubi passed by, not a good time to take pics but just to document...the bell tower not in view

    The Tagudin town hall served as a hospital during World War II with a National Historical Committee, now National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP, formerly National Historical Institute) marker in front of the government building just beside the old Spanish sundial.

    tagudin town hallthe Tagudin Municipal Hall (munisipyo/municipio) with the sundial and NHI marker in view

    NHI marker reads: "The Base Hospital USAFIP, NL

    The base hospital was transferred to this town on 27 May 1945. Bringing it closer to the frontline where the battle were tremendously heavy. Headquarters was installed at the municipal hall while big tents set up on the town plaza and on the market site as well as the big residential houses bordering the town plaza were utilized as hospital wards. Manned at the height of the campaign by 881 military and civilian personnel, this hospital was biggest installation of its kind in the country during the Philippine liberation campaign."

    a list of world war II veterans is engraved on a commemorative plaque also in the plaza where the names of officers and enlisted personnel and soldiers at the former military hospital. (Tutubi can send you high-res copies of the honor roll upon request)

    Other interesting places in Tagudin, Ilocos Sur for verification if they're really interesting as no information can be found even on the official website of Tagudin (such a shame, similar problem to most towns and cities of the Philippines)

    1. Becques Beach, said to be good but has to be visited to confirm
    2. Baracbac Falls, a waterfalls in Brgy. Baracbac
    3. Farola Lighthouse in barangay Farola (is this an old spanish lighthouse?)
    4. The 200m long Ambalayat Hanging Bridge in Brgy. Ambalayat

    Tagudin Sundial GPS coordinates: N16 56 01.8 E120 26 42.0
    Tagudin, Ilocos Sur was not yet included on OpenStreetMap when Tutubi visited. He was able to add the two major roads to the map of Tagudin as well as the Tagudin Municipal Hall, St. Augustine School, the two sundials, and the town plaza.

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    posted by GingGoy @ 11:11 PM, ,

    The "Evergreen" Japanese Garden in Cavinti, Laguna

    Built in 1978 by the government of Japan and frequented by little Tutubi of the 80s when his father was working at the National Power Corporation's hydro power plant project, the Japanese Garden, located near the shores of Caliraya Lake is a popular picnic place and photography location shoots (e.g. prenups and probably a garden wedding venue).

    On entering the place, you'll notice towering trees (a delightful treat to biologists and nature lovers alike) and wide spaces of green grass ideal as picnic areas. There are also cottages (no rental fees), restrooms and a snack counter, a man-made lagoon (that used to have kois and goldfish years ago). For those going on a picnic, food is allowed to be taken in but be sure to not leave your trash behind (as it should always be).

    japanese garden caliraya cavintithe man-made lagoon that used to be populated with kois with torii-like bridge that connects to the long stairway




    it's a walk in the park for this kid and 2 ladies

    the hilltop provides a good photo opportunity much better if there's a blue sky. the top of the hill offers a great vantage point for viewing the twin lakes of Caliraya and Lake Lumot while savoring country fresh air

    the view of Lake Caliraya on the hilltop

    Inside the Japanese Garden is a shrine constructed by Philippine-Japan Friendship Society in memory of the Japanese soldiers who perished in the battle during World War II between the Japanese and Filipino-American troops. (Tutubi overheard a local mentioning Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita held camp at the garden wile on another occasion also heard Yamashita and the fabled Yamashita Treasures were buried there. Such rumors still persists!

    the Japanese memorial to fallen soldiers of World War II...no mention of Gen. Yamashita (as Tutubi can recognize Yamashita in Nihongo/Kanji if it's written on the historical markers)

    In truth, Gen. Yamashita used the mountains of the Cordilleras to defend against the combined forces of the Americans and Filipinos (and some Australians though largely ignored by history); surrendered in the town of Kiangan, Ifugao; tried by a kangaroo court of Gen. MacArthur, convicted for war crimes he didn't commit, hanged and buried somewhere in Los Banos, Laguna near UPLB and Bureau of Plant Industry. The site is now called Homma-Yamashita Shrine and is the subject of a future Tutubi exploration. The "Tiger of Malaya" is now enshrined at the infamous Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo.

    Lastly, this Japanese garden won't be complete without the iconic torii (鳥居・鳥栖・鶏栖)-- the traditional Japanese gate common in Shinto Shrines and Japanese Buddhist temples.

    torii japanese gardenone of two torii inside the Japanese Garden

    ---

    For those wishing to visit the Japanese Garden

    Japanese Garden Entrance Fee:

    P10.00 for adults (including employees of NAPOCOR)
    P5.00 for children

    How to get to Japanese Garden, Cavinti, Laguna:

    From Quezon City, the fastest route to Japanese Garden is via Rizal province and Manila East Road that'll take you to breathtaking views of Rizal province's "bitukang manok,"the city of Antipolo (via Sumulong Highway) and towns of Teresa, Morong, Baras, Tanay, Pililla, and the Laguna towns of Mabitac, Famy, Siniloan, Pangil, Pakil, Paete, Kalayaan and Lumban. In Lumban, you need to turn left when you see the kilometer 95 marker then go up Caliraya-Cavinti Road where Japanese Garden is located. Travel time via this route is around 3 hours from Trinoma/SM City North EDSA.

    From Makati, you can take SLEX Calamba exit then turn right at Calamba Crossing (unless you know the bypass road in Real up to Halang to avoid traffic) then drive all the way to Lumban to kilometer 95 marker. Follow the upward road til you see the Japanese Garden sign to your right.

    Commute to Japanese Garden? It's not really easy and reliable but possible to get there via Sta. Cruz, Laguna where you can ride jeepneys plying the Sta. Cruz - Lumot route (look for the signboard Lumot, refers to Lake Lumot and Lumot, Cavinti)

    Other attraction: Lake Caliraya, Lumot Lake and the so called Magnetic Hill near the kilometer 98 marker. The Japanese Garden is said to be the drop off point for the one hour trek to the secluded Twin Falls of Cavinti but the waterfalls but is located in a private property so no effort is made to verify the claims of locals.

    Related Posts:

    Caliraya Lake Resort
    Bus to Sta. Cruz, Laguna
    Exotikk Restaurant

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    posted by GingGoy @ 10:32 PM, ,

    The US Flag Raising on Hill 120, Dulag, Leyte

    One of World War II's most iconic images was taken on Iwo Jima with the US Marines planting the American flag on the blood-drenched island of Iwo Jima in southern Japan after a hard-fought and costly battle.

    In the Philippines, the first raising of the American flag on Philippine soil after the fall of Bataan was made on top of Hill 120 in Dulag Leyte facing Red Beach, a few hours after Gen. Douglas macArthur waded ashore nearby on Red Beach, Palo, Leyte, area now called Leyte Landing Memorial

    the not so noticeable depiction of the flag-raising on Hill 120 where a US soldier climbing a coconut tree

    Facing the main highway of Dulag is a historical marker narrating the historic significance of the place and reads:"Atop the height of this hill 120, Blue beach, Dulag Leyte, Philippines at 10:42 a.m. 20 October 1944, only 42 minutes had elapsed since the first assault troops of the 3rd BN of 382D Infantry, 96th Division of the American forces of liberation had landed 1st Lt. Clifford W. Mills raised the American flag in Philippine soil after it had been lowered at Bataan on 9 April 1942. Floating high and proud was tangible proof that the Americans had made good their promise to the Filipinos."

    "In grateful memory of the unknown American soldiers who with untold magnanimity and valiance fought and paid the supreme sacrifice on this foreign shore to liberate a people foreign to them."

    Japanese Memorial and Cenotaph of the bloody encounter

    "Cenotaph

    Dedicated to console all souls of Filipinos, Japanese, American who
    passed away in Leyte during World War II.

    Sworn that the same tragedy and mistake should never be repeated. Prayer
    for the true world peace and friendship forever"

    There's a trail of concrete steps up to the top of Hill 120 require a five minute trek upwards.



    On top of the hill, the view is obstructed by tall trees mostly coconuts plus a limited view of what seemed to be a construction or cement factory. Badges and logos of 96th Infantry Division who stormed the hill, the Deadeyes, are displayed on the memorial.



    World War II monuments are regularly featured on this blog, not to glorify a war but to remind people of the lives lost and folly of a senseless war.

    ---

    How to get to Dulag, Leyte:

    the town of Dulag can be reached by two jeepney rides from Tacloban Airport, first the jeep from San Jose to Tacloban City transport terminal then another jeep to Dulag, Leyte about an hour away.



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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:09 PM, ,

    MacArthur Park (Leyte Landing Memorial) on Red Beach, Palo, Leyte

    The most famous landmark and tourist attraction of Tacloban, though not really a part of the now highly-urbanized city, is MacArthur Park, now known as Leyte Landing Memorial. It dramatizes the landing of Gen. Douglas MacArthur on Read Beach with larger-than-life bronze statues of the general long with his entourage.

    It was on October 20, 1944 when Gen. Douglas MacArthur waded ashore accompanied by then Philippine President Sergio Osmeña, Brig. Gen. Carlos P. Romulo (who'd become president of United Nations General Assembly) and Pres. Osmena's Aide-de-Camp Tony Madrigal (Don Antonio, the father of Senator Jamby Madrigal), to begin the liberation of Leyte Island and of the whole archipelago from the clutches of Imperial Japan.

    macarthur landing red beach leyteMacArthur Landing Park on Red Beach, Palo, Leyte

    The beachhead in Palo town, a few minutes from Tacloban City, is not really colored red per se nor called as such due to red color of the blood-drenched sand, but a designation of the beach in planning by the US military. There's also Blue Beach in nearby Dulag town and similar conventions of beaches in La Union and Pangasinan in Lingayen Gulf during the landing in Luzon island and Yellow Beach in Zamboanga City.

    macarthur shrine palo leytethe MacArthur "shrine" with historical markers in view

    the markers on the "shrine" reads:

    "On this spot, Palo, Leyte, General Douglas MacArthur returned to the
    Philippines on 20 October 1944 and personally led the swift drive
    against the Japanese forces in the Philippines. President Sergio
    Osmena arrived with General MacArthur and proceeded to reorganize, restore and administer the government of the commonwealth of the Philippines. Declared and National Historical Landmark 2004.
    "

    Alternate reports from actual observers and historians narrated how the dogmatic general spent five hours and three takes before the (in)famous video clip was recorded with him wading on Red Beach of Palo, Leyte, while the boats and his men on the shore were exposed to the blistering attacks of Kamikaze pilots from Pampanga that gravely put his men in danger because of his landing rehearsals typical of politicians for self-aggrandizement.

    leyte landing memorialMacArthur Park (Leyte Landing Memorial) with a person in view to add scale to the larger-than-life bronze statues inside a man-made lagoon on Red Beach

    Three days after the historic Leyte landing, began the Battle of Leyte Gulf, the largest naval battle of World War II and one of the largest naval battles in history, that ended with the crushing defeat of the Imperial Japanese Navy at the hands of the Americans aided by the Royal Australian Navy.

    Lastly, does anybody know why MacArthur chose to land on the beaches of Leyte and not anywhere else? Historians know MacArthur initially planned to invade Mindanao particularly Sarangani Bay on December 20, 1944 but was diverted to Leyte two months ahead of schedule. It has something to do with guerillas (the unsung heroes) from Cebu. More on this on a future post.

    How to get to MacArthur Park (Leyte Landing Memorial):

    Commuting to MacArthur Shrine takes just two rides from Tacloban airport. First, ride a Tacloban bound jeep outside the Tacloban Aiport arrival area. Alight on the area known to the locals as Coca Cola (a park with a Coke factory with prominent Coke, Sprite and Royal giant cans as landmarks), cross the street then transfer to a jeepney bound for Baras (not Marasbaras) that passes by the park.

    Those who took RORO buses or ferries to Tacloban can go there by taking a jeepney to Tacloban City center and transfer to Baras-bound jeeps near Tacloban Market, even Robinsons Tacloban mall.

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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:52 PM, ,

    A Rainy Day at Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor), Mt. Samat Bataan

    "Bumagsak na ang Bataan," Tutubi said when he went to Bataan to attend his officemates' wedding at St. Joseph Cathedral in Balanga with a sidetrip to the historic Mt. Samat, the site of fierce fighting at the onset of World War II and where the Dambana ng kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) stands to remind visitors of the gallant stand of American and Filipino soldiers in World War II.

    Mt. Samat was the stronghold of combined American and Filipino forces defending the mountainous peninsula of Bataan against the Japanese from December 1941 until its capitulation on April 9, 1942.

    The almost four month long resistance, caught the Japanese by surprise and delayed their war plan thereby saving Australia from the onslaught of the Land of the Rising Sun.

    The Fall of Bataan on April 9, 1942 started the harrowing war crime called Bataan Death March where thousands of American and Filipino POWs were forced to march for about 100 kilometers, by foot interrupted by a train ride in cramped cars, for days without food and water to get to Capas, Tarlac. Thousands died during the ordeal and thousands more died at the concentration camp during captivity.

    Mt. Samat Shrine, dubbed "Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor)," was built to honor not just the heroic efforts of the World War II soldiers who valiantly fought the Japanese invaders against insurmountable odds but also all other heroes whose heroics and deeds were enshrined like Jose Rizal whose bas relief occupies one side of the Memorial Cross, Juan Luna, Emilio Aguinaldo, Lapu-Lapu, Apolinario Mabini, Emilio Jacinto, Melchora Aquino, Gabriela Silang et al.

    Now declared a National Historical Shrine, it was built during the time of Pres. Ferdinand Marcos on top of Mt. Samat, the base of the site of fierce fighting with main feature of a Monument Cross standing 92 meters tall made of concrete, marble and steel.

    The hurriedly taken picture of Dambana ng Kagitingan's Monument Cross in just in time before fog and rain enveloped the monument

    a brief lull in the rain allowed Tutubi to take a photo of two "young-at-hearts" playing with a gun battery similar to the ones displayed on Corregidor Island

    The sad part about the trip was that the rain almost spoiled the trip completely. Tutubi didn't bother to ride the elevator to get to the top of the Monument Cross to get a sweeping view of Bataan peninsula, Manila Bay and even Corregidor Island. A brief photo-op with officemates resulted to a few pictures (with one of his peers did an Oblation-like pose near the cross' base in silhouette). No other pictures were taken as the entire Mt. Samat was covered in rain clouds that even Tutubi's waterproof camera was rendered useless.

    Dambana ng Kagitingan deserves a return trip for Tutubi as well as his wish to re-trace the infamous Death March route someday.



    ---

    Dambana ng Kagitingan Travel Information


    Mt. Samat Shrine Entrance Fees:

    PhP30.00 for foreigners
    PhP20.00 for locals
    PhP10.00 for students

    Parking fee:

    PhP20.00 cars/small vehicles
    PhP50.00 large vehicles

    Overnight accommodations at Mt. Samat Shrine is offered at the Dambana ng Kagitingan Guesthouse. No information was gathered due to the rains.

    There's also a museum inside the shrine but was not visited by Tutubi due to lack of time.

    Shrine is open to the public from 8am to 5pm, Tuesdays to Sundays (closed on Mondays, no information on holidays as of posting time). Elevator access to the top of the Cross is closed during lunch break

    Comfort Rooms available with PhP3.00 per "pee fee."

    How to get to Mt. Samat Shrine Bataan:

    Driving Directions: From EDSA northbound to Balintawak take NLEX and exit at the SCTEx spur road after passing Dau toll plaza. After getting ticket at SCTex tollgate, choose the road going to Subic and exit at Dinalupihan (Toll fee: PhP88.00) Turn right at the end of the SCTEx exit road and follow road signs leading to Mt. Samat, Balanga or your destination town.

    On reaching Pilar, Bataan junction, you'll see direction signs on your right pointing the way to Mt. Samat where you turn right (sign says the historic shrine is 11 kilometers away). Turn left on the road after passing Kilometer 19 Death March Marker

    Travel time to Bataan (Mt Samat or Balanga) is around 2.5 to 3 hours from EDSA, Quezon City via NLEX and SCTEx.

    Commute to Bataan, the backpacking way is not easy for the route to the historic shrine is not served by public transportation. The nearest point can be reached by Bataan buses is the Pilar, Bataan junction on the national highway where the shrine's 11 kilometers away. You can ride a tricycle at the junction or do some muscle flexing by trekking up the mountain.

    Ferries to Bataan are available from SM Mall of Asia complex by MetroStar serving the Pasay to Orion Port ferry route. In Orion, you can ride jeepneys going to Balanga that pass by Pilar and alight at the junction for the jump-off point to Mt. Samat Shrine


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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:09 PM, ,

    The Neo-Classical Leyte Provincial Capitol

    The first destination of Tutubi's DIY tour of Tacloban took him to the Leyte Provincial Capitol, an almost immaculate white neo-classical building that once served as Capitol Building of the Commonwealth of the Philippines during the period dubbed as days of liberation of World War II that began with the historic Battle of Leyte Gulf and Leyte invasion.

    The capitol building sports a neo-classical architectural style typical of American-era government edifices.




    NHI Historical Marker reads:

    "Capitol Building of the Philippines, 1944-1945

    On the steps of this Capitol Building of Leyte was formally installed, 23 October 1944, Sergio Osmena as president of the Commonwealth of the Philippines by Gen. Douglas MacArthur in the presence of cabinetmen, liberation forces and many other grateful people. Henceforth, until 27 February 1945, this edifice served as the Capitol Building of the Philippines."




    After the bloody and disastrous Battle of Manila, the seat of the national government moved to its home in Manila.

    Two bas reliefs can be found on both sides of the capitol: a depiction of the "first mass" on Limasawa Island and the landing of Gen. Douglas MacArthur on Red Beach, Palo, Leyte.

    Inside the capitol was an exhibit on the 64th anniversary of the Leyte landing celebration last month including photographs and memoirs other historic events in Leyte and Samar including the Balangiga massacre during the Philippine-American War.

    Notes:

    Then Vice President Sergio Osmena, whose face you see featured on the P50 bill, was installed president of the Commonwealth due to the death of President Manuel Quezon on August 1, 1944 in New York, after a long fight against tuberculosis (a highly-cureable disease these days). He was with President Quezon on Corregidor Island and left the island for the United States to establish the Philippine government in exile. After the war, he lost the presidential elections of 1946 to Manuel Roxas (the face on the P100 bill), the first president of the new independent Republic of the Philippines. He retired in Cebu, his home province, died in 1961 and buried at Manila North Cemetery.

    The site of the first mass in the Philippines and second anchorage of Ferdinand Magellan, after Homonhon, in 1521 is still disputed. It's historically recorded as Mazaua by Antonio Figafetta, Magellan's chronicler who was able to return to Spain after Magellan was killed in The Battle of Mactan against Lapu-lapu. The "official" stand of the NHI shot down arguments that Limasawa has no anchorage for large boats and disregarded the accounts of Gines de Mafra, the only person to have visited Mazaua twice, first with Magellan and the second time with the ill-fated expedition of Ruy Lopez de Villalobos, who pointed Mazaua to an island not Limasawa, but somewhere in Butuan in northern Mindanao. More of this in future posts...

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    posted by GingGoy @ 8:57 PM, ,

    Leyte: Veterans Park and the Battle of Ormoc Bay

    A short visit to Ormoc City was highlighted by a quick city tour in the afternoon. Walking distance from OCCCI Hostel (where Tutubi stayed at) is a public space on Ormoc Bay, called Veterans Park, with a pylon honoring the courageous war veterans of the Second World War in the Pacific Theater.

    Ormoc Bay with Cebu Ferries waiting to leave for Cebu at 2pm every Monday and Wednesday at Ormoc City pier. Cebu ferries services Ormocanos taking them to Cebu, Dumaguete, Iligan, Jagna (Bohol), Nasipit and Ozamis.




    the Veterans Monument in front of Ormoc City Superdome

    A colorful monument to the guerillas during the war, the guerilla warfare forces, near the Veterans Monument in front of Ormoc City Superdome.

    Ormoc Bay was the site of the historic Battle of Ormoc Bay in November 1944, just a few days after the Battle of Leyte Gulf began. It was on Ormoc Bay where Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita sent reinforcements to Leyte against Gen. Douglas MacArthur's army who had landed on Red Beach in Palo town on October 20, 1944 (the same day when the first Kamikaze strikes were launched from Pampanga), ten days after Yamashita arrived in the Philippines and assumed responsibility of the defense of the Philippines.

    With the defeat of the Japanese in The Battle of Leyte Gulf and the succeeding Battle of Ormoc Bay, Allied forces affirmed control of Leyte. From there, they launched attacks re-claiming other islands before the the disastrous Battle for Manila in February 1945, when Manila was leveled to the ground by American carpet-bombing on the (unnecessary) order of Gen. Douglas MacArthur combined with Japanese demolition.

    On World War II Veterans:


    Filipinos fought side-by-side with Americans during the war against the Japanese juggernaut. After the war, the Americans promised help, including US citizenships, to their brothers-in-arms, but the promises were never fully fulfilled. War veterans today are very old, sickly and dying one after the other without the promised aid...some were given but never enough to commensurate to the sacrifice and hardships they endured.

    To Uncle Sam: Cuando, cuando, cuando?

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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:15 PM, ,

    Pampanga: The Birth of the Kamikaze (神風) (Historic Airfield)

    In World History, people remember the fateful day of October 20, 1944 synonymous with the well-rehearsed and publicized landing of Gen. Douglas MacArthur on the beach of Palo, Leyte and the great Battle of Leyte Gulf, the largest naval battle in history between the Imperial Japanese Navy against the massive US fleet and some Australian vessels.

    Lesser known than the much-publicized landing of the megalomaniacal general, together with the diminutive Carlos P. Romulo ,wading on the beach, was the birth of the flying human bombs, dubbed the Kamikaze, meaning divine wind in Japanese, that was very successful, at first, in hitting their targets, until the Americans found ways to neutralize them later in the war.

    On a recent trip to Pampanga, Tutubi, aided by a map from Wikimapia, searched for a former airstrip constructed by the Americans during "peace time" and used by the Japanese during World War II. The old runway is now gone, nearby however is the toll gate of the newly-opened Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway. To commemorate the historic significance of the place, the Kamikaze Peace Shrine and Memorial was constructed on the site of the former airstrip.

    the sign at the gate of memorial shrine. there are also two huge markers ont the entrance walls, one in Japanese, the other in English, with the words in full below.

    the monument of the Kamikaze airman with fresh flowers probably laid by Japanese tourists
    the memorial shrine with the Philippine flag and the old flag rising sun of imperian Japan. (Notice the drop of water on the lens that Tutubi didn't remove by Photoshop :P )

    The entrance of the shrine is "guarded" by a torii gate, traditional Japanese gates of Shinto Shrines. After 4 "classic" shots, rain fell and Tutubi had to scamper back to his car to save his camera from getting drenched.

    the torii gate of the shrine taken from inside the car.

    Lt. Seki, the first confirmed Kamikaze pilot, before his historic suicide mission wrote: "Japan's future is bleak if it is forced to kill one of its best pilots. I am not going on this mission for the Emperor or for the Empire... I am going because I was ordered to!" He was also heard say "It is better to die, rather than to live as a coward."

    Such is the spirit of the Kamikaze, death before dishonor, the way of the ancient Samurai and the Bushido Code...

    For Tutubi, all he can say of the Kamikaze are these two words: NEVER AGAIN!

    ---
    The historical marker reads:

    "Kamikaze East Airfield Peace Memorial

    This spot is the central frontage of the very first Japanese Kamikaze Airfield during World War II, the Mabalacat East Airfield. On 20 October 1944, Vice Admiral Takijiro Onishi founded the Kamikaze at Mabalacat, Pampanga, Luzon Island. The first to volunteer were 23 fliers of the 201st Air Fleet, Imperial Nippon Naval Air Force under Capt. Sakae Yamamoto, then stationed at Mabalacat. This first Kamikaze group was called the Shinpu Special Attack Corp under Lt. Yukio Seki. The corps was divided into four units: the Shikishima Unit, the Yamato Unit; the Asahi Unit, and the Yamazakura Unit. At 0725 hrs. on 25 October 1944, the Shikishima unit took off from Mabalacat led by Lt. Yukio Seki. His men were Sgt. Iwao Nakano, Sgt. Nobuotami, Em 1/C Hajime Nagamine and Em 2/C Shigeo Oguro At 1045 hrs., on the said date, the unit hit enemy targets near the Gulf of Leyte. Lt. Seki's plane hit first, blowing up the U.S. Carrier St. Lo which sank 20 minutes later. Lt. Seki's men also hit and heavily damaged the U.S. Carriers: Kalinin Bay, Kitkun Bay, Sangamon, Santee, Suwanee and White Plains. This first successful Kamikaze Mission was witnessed, then reported by C/WO Hiroyoshi Nishizawa, Japan's greatest pilot, to Lt. Cmdr. Tadashi Nakajima in Cebu Air Base of the 201st Airgroup. War Historians considered Lt. Yukio Seki as the "The World's First Official Human Bomb!"

    N.B.

    The Mabalacat Tourism Office (MTO) supports the establishment of the Kamikaze Peace Memorial not for the glorification of the Kamikaze but rather for the promotion of goodwill, peace, and friendship among nations. The Memorial serves as a reminder that the Kamikaze phenomenon should never happen again.

    Whereas, the once dusty and serene town of Mabalacat is recorded in the annals of war in the Pacific theater during the Second World War as the birthplace of the Kamikaze phenomenon;

    Whereas, the people of Mabalacat were innocent victims caught in a senseless war between foreign powers for world supremacy;

    Whereas, the cause and demise of of the Kamikaze pilots is an important part of liberative struggle of the Mabalaquenos and the entire Filipino nation to unchain the fetters that bind them;

    Whereas, the establishment of the Kamikaze monument which would not only serve as a cruel reminder of the horrors and senselessness of war, but is likely to boost tourism and sense of history in the area; and

    Wherefore, the declaration of Clarkfield-Mabalacat, Pampanga on October 1998 as "A City of World Peace" is a continuing effort to secure lasting and enduring peace for all mankind thorughout the world, irrespective of nations and races.

    Signed: Guy "Indra" Hilbero
    Mabalacat Tourism Office
    WWII Researcher"


    Note:
    There is a so-called Kamikaze Museum maintained by the Kamikaze Memorial Society of the Philippines (KAMESO), in nearby Angeles City but Tutubi has yet to visit the place. Various World War II mementos of the Kamikaze pilots of Japan and different helmets used by the Axis and Allied powers of World War II are said to be on display.

    How to get there:


    Driving Directions: From NLEX, exit at Dau, but do not cross the bridge going to Tarlac, instead drive towards the Mabalacat arch until you see the end of road leading to a public market then turn right. It's just along MacArthur Highway and a few meters after the exit gates of SCTEx.

    Commute: There are buses going to Mabalacat Pampanga or Angeles City. In Mabalacat, transfer to a Capas-bound jeepney where you will pass by the shrine near the boundary of Bamban, Tarlac.

    There are two other events on the 20th of October very significant to this blog. Can anyone guess what they are?


    神風 第二次世界大戦

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    posted by GingGoy @ 9:01 PM, ,